CATERING TO THE UNREAL AMERICAN SET Brie, Chablis The proponents of American exceptionalism have run themselves a tiny bit aground on the reef of just how great America is. Take Sarah Palin's new idea, delivered late last week: "We believe that the best of America is not all in Washington, D.C. We believe, we believe that the best of America is in these small towns that we get to visit, and in these wonderful little pockets of what I call the real America, being here with all of you hard working very patriotic, um, very, um, pro-America areas of this great nation." So, okay, Americans are the best in the world, but there are little pockets of uber-America. Pockets of exceptional exceptionalism! Also, if there is a "real America" then there are also perhaps some "pockets" or even entire cities who are not only not real but are also worse than not real.